The Caldera Walk
The caldera rim path between Oia and Fira is two and a half hours of the finest coastal walking in Greece — a paved trail following the edge of the cliff 300 metres above the sea, with views that extend across the entire caldera to the volcanic island of Nea Kameni in the centre and the towns of Imerovigli and Fira strung along the opposite rim. Walk it from Oia heading south in the early morning before the heat arrives. The path is well-marked and mostly paved; the final descent into Fira is steep. End with breakfast at a café on the caldera edge.
The Volcanic Geography
Santorini is the southern rim of a caldera created by one of the largest volcanic eruptions in human history, approximately 3,600 years ago. The eruption destroyed the Minoan city of Akrotiri, generated a tsunami, and may have contributed to the collapse of Minoan civilisation on Crete. What remains is the arc of the original island — the cliffs visible from any point on the caldera — and the volcanic islands in the centre. Nea Kameni still vents sulphurous gas and is reachable by boat excursion from Fira or Oia. The hot springs around its coast are used for swimming; the temperature of the water around the vents is noticeably warm.
The Assyrtiko Wine
Santorini produces some of the most distinctive wine in Greece from vines grown in the volcanic soil without irrigation — old vines (some over a century), low yields, and the basket-form training that protects the grapes from the fierce Aegean wind. The principal grape is Assyrtiko: high-acid, mineral, and suited to the island’s seafood and heat with an accuracy that seems designed rather than evolved. The volcanic minerals in the soil give the wine a salinity that has no equivalent in continental viticulture. Visit the wineries at Gavalas, Domaine Sigalas, or Hatzidakis for tastings — all open to visitors by appointment.
The Black and Red Beaches
The volcanic beaches on Santorini’s south coast are among the most striking in the Aegean. The Black Beach at Perissa and Perivolos is a long arc of black sand — hot underfoot by noon, requiring sandals — with a good taverna strip behind it and the rock of Mesa Vouno as a dramatic backdrop. Red Beach, near Akrotiri, is smaller and more crowded but backed by extraordinary red-black volcanic cliffs that make it among the most photogenic beaches in Greece. Both are served by bus from Fira. In May and October, both beaches are significantly quieter than in July and August.
When to Go
Late April through June is the finest time on Santorini: the island is warm, the accommodation is available, and the cruise ships have not yet arrived in their July-August density. September and October give warm seas, the grape harvest at the wineries, and the return of something approaching normal life. July and August mean cruise-ship crowds at the main viewpoints from 10am to 5pm — Oia’s sunset promontory can hold five hundred people applauding simultaneously. The island in November through March is almost empty, many restaurants are closed, and the caldera in winter light and wind is genuinely austere and beautiful.
Getting There and Around
Santorini’s airport connects directly to most European cities in summer; outside season, a connection through Athens is usually necessary. The ferry from Athens (Piraeus) takes seven to nine hours on the overnight boat or about five hours on the fast catamaran. From the port at Athinios, taxis and buses connect to Fira. On the island, the bus system connects the main towns reliably; a rental car, motorcycle, or ATV reaches everywhere the bus does not. The roads are narrow and the local driving standards require attention. The caldera settlements (Oia, Imerovigli, Fira) are connected by the rim path on foot; between them and the eastern beaches, transport is necessary.
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